This is continuation of Part 5 – Indoor Low Light
I took photos in the following conditions.. Printed them at the equivalent size of 16×20. I let the camera choose the shutter speed and ISO.
Scenario |
Olympus | Nikon |
Conclusion |
Inside train at night time | ![]() |
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Identical, ISO2000 of D810 is same as ISO800 from Pen-F. |
Near the window shade with natural light | ISO200,f/2.8,1/60 | ISO 400,f/4, 1/60 | Olympus , most likely at f/2.8 the lens is sharper than f/4 nikkor |
Day time inside the house | ISO 1600, f/2.8, 1/13 | ISO 7200, f/4, 1/25 | Olympus , ISO 1600 at m4/3 kind of equals ISO 5000 with this lens. |
Daytime with the face in dark shadows | ISO 200, f/2.8, 1/640 sec | ISO 200, f/4, 1/200th sec | Nikon, at same ISO there is no comparison with FF for pulling the shadows |
Daytime outside with proper lighting | ISO 200, f/2.8, 1/400 sec | ISO 200, f/4, 1/320th sec | Identical , when the lighting is proper and no tonal adjustments are needed, theres noting much in FF other than able to make larger prints |
Nighttime portrait with the skyline | ISO 640, f/4, 0.6 sec | ISO 3200, f/5.6 , 1/4th of sec | Used fill flash. Liked the results Olympus better, m4/3 has better DoF to keep both People and background city slightly in focus |
Nighttime inside restaurant | ISO 12800, f/4 and 1/15th of sec | ISO 1600, f/1.4 and 1/15th of sec | This I cheated with f/1.4 prime for m4/3 |
Nighttime inside the house | ISO 1600, 1/80th | ISO 1600, 1/50th of sec | Nikon, |
Sporting action indoors | Neither,I shot at max of 1/250th of second, Which is too slow for what I wanted to capture.
Need faster better zoom. |
This photo is with a tour group with city skyline in the background. To get reasonable focus on the buildings, I have to use f/8 or at least f/5.6 which forces higher ISO to capture enough citi lights. Can’t also use longer shutter speed, as street lights will cause a blur on faces. This is one of the places m4/3 sensor with small sensor has advantage over the bigger sensor.
Conclusion:
Nikon combo holds the advantage only when the light is unfavorable and I had to lot of photoshop work to do correct the shadows. If not i would prefer to keep m4/3 combo with me, just because at f/4 the 24-120mm is not that great.
This is where there is no real usage of better Image Stabilization with m4/3 body as I hardly go slower than 1/30th of second.